Songs to Adventure By

To fully grasp our experience, readers should know that while we’re cycling we mostly don’t talk to each other. One of us is usually ahead of the other and out of earshot, and besides we can’t keep a conversation going at all hours of the day, especially while we huff away for eight hours on our bikes. Most of the time, on those long difficult stretches where there’s not much to hear but the roaring of the wind and passing cars, I’m listening to music. Sometimes on quieter parts, usually at the start of the day when I’m not out of breath, I’m singing some old favorites, but mostly my iPod Classic is on and I’ve got my earbuds lashed in with my headband. Here’s what excites me when it comes on shuffle during parts of our adventure, in no particular order:

1) The Legend of Zelda Overworld music (particular the orchestrated version)
2) Gerudo Valley (also from Legend of Zelda, but deserves mention for being perfect desert music)
3) I Give Him Balance and He Gives Me Speed (from Kino’s Journey, the show that inspired us back in the day)
4) The Legend of Ashitaka (from the OST of Princess Mononoke, a film from the famed director Hayao Miyazaki)
5) Feeling Good (Nina Simone, always my favorite song)
6) Rock Anthem For Saving the World (from the first Halo game, came on during the last stretch to Zamiin Uud and gave me a much needed adrenaline boost)
7) Symphony No. 2 (Sibelius, those later movements can utterly change how you perceive a landscape)
8) I Can’t Make it Anymore (Richie Havens, for when I feel like bitching)
9) Always Look on the Bright Side of Life (Monty Python, for when I’m done bitching)
10) The Sunlit Earth, Prohibited Art, or the Prologue (from the OST of Shadow of the Colossus, a truly epic adventure game whose settings seemed inspired by Mongolia)
11) Ain’t Got No (Nina Simone, she keeps me positive when the going is rough)
12) Time in a Bottle (Jim Croce, one of the few songs Sebrand can play on guitar that I know the words to, so a common choice for singing)
13) Twilight (ELO)
14) Greenback Dollar (Kingston Trio, a classic road song)
15) I’m Tired/Where Am I (Savoy Brown, I wish the title matched the lyrics as well as it matched how I feel at the end of some days)
16) Speak Softly Love (Andy Williams, because sometimes you just need cheesy love songs)
17) Anything from Tchaikovsky, particularly the Nutcracker but also the Sixth Symphony can help change the mood
18) The Sorcerer’s Apprentice (Paul Dukas)
19) Firebird Suite (Igor Stravinsky)
20) the Mountaineer (Edvard Grieg)
21) Summertime (George Gershwin)
22) Star Wars OST (John Williams)
23) MacArthur Park (Vic Damone)
24) Fire Emblem theme
25) The Elder Scrolls IV: Skyrim OST
26) Lord of the Rings music

Video games have so many good songs for long journeys. But there’s plenty to draw from in other genres as well. Music can really help the longer hours pass, and if shuffle cooperates, it can occasionally set the right track and make a moment that much more memorable.

Diaries: Night 1 in China, 28 June around 10pm

The wind is howling over our lodging tonight. It is our first night in China after successfully crossing the border (a story in its own right). But tonight,  as mysterious rapping echoes through the dusty halls and truck horns moan on the nearby road,  I want to explain where we are and how we got here.

  
From the collapsed sign out front,  we deduced that we’re in an abandoned traffic police station.  

  
There is still a brilliant red banner lined by gold to that effect in the main hall. Sebrand notes that it’s bizarrely clean for its musty surroundings: flaking ceilings, dust tracked floors, and moldy walls. The whole place smells of paint solvent and decayed plaster. We’re in the front office,  windowed on all sides but the inner wall. There is a window to the entry hall that we opened to clear the air a little.

How did we get here?  We biked for many miles out of Erenhot, still a part of the Gobi,  but today uniquely windy and sunless. Dark clouds loomed. Fed up with the gusts,  we pulled aside at a sandy lot, in front of a dim shop to which the stairs had been destroyed or never built. The lot looked like a construction area,  but the tracks weren’t clearly from cars or from bulldozers. We might have thought the shop was closed if we weren’t so accustomed to these run down places sparing electricity. We climbed onto the patio and entered the shop,  and, being inside, lost the heart to bear with the wind any longer. With hand motions we asked the old shopkeeper if we could set up our tent out front. At first he ignored us, but with some pleading,  he beckoned us to follow. Out of the dirt he brought us next door to a locked gate,  large and ornate like that of a manor, complete with gold trim and fresh red paint (noted from the paint stains we saw on the grass). In the courtyard there was a small tree and two dilapidated buildings. One looked like a residence and was a bit further. 

  
We stayed in the closer one with the fallen police sign. One of the glass doors to the building had been shattered,  though the shards had long been swept away.  There were red paint splatters on the stairs surrounding a discarded kitchen kitchen knife, lying there ominously in front of the door.

  
With our bikes,  we followed our shelterer, who bore a sweet but uncomfortable smile,  through the shattered door,  stepping through its empty frame. Inside was somber. Translucent plastic drapes,  the kind you might see in a quarantine tent, separated the entry hall from the main hall. We pushed these aside to find the bright red banner underneath which we rested our bikes. The old man showed us to our office and left us on our own with a shy grin and a bow.

  
As I write this,  it is dark. The wind still roars over the building and through the shattered front door, exciting the medical drapes to tap like footsteps in the entry hall. I keep expecting to see the man standing at the window we opened, but of course there’s no one there. Sounds I can’t identify pitter-patter through the walls. There are cameras at every high corner. Drips can be heard like the gnawing and salivating of an animal. Shadows of the pointed fence posts glide along the walls swiftly like rows of knives as cars hiss down the road. We hope for a good night’s sleep.

P. S.: We hid the knife. We felt maybe that it was too much of a Chekhov’s gun to be left where it was. That gave us some peace of mind.

End journal entry

To Those Who Doubt:

With rushing catharsis I’m pleased to declare that this trip is. Actually. Happening. Any of you incredulous heathen dirt beasts who didn’t believe in our abilities to get this thing together, to you I say, “Nyeeeeeh”, with the appropriate scornful flaring of the nostrils and lips. We’re gone. Actually there weren’t really any doubters. I don’t know who I’m writing this to. I’m sorry, I just wish there were skeptics I could sneer at to garnish my excitement and relief with sweet vindication. You all were far too supportive and kind.

Well, it could not have happened later, but our Chinese visas, the last unobtained prerequisites to the initiation of our plans, have arrived. The visas, as a going concern, are no longer as such. Their advent is secured. That is to say, we have them. Praise the sun. Never mind that we’re also leaving for the airport to Houston within the hour to face a possible tropical storm delay. A mere rough patch of weather cannot stop us. On the 18th, we’ll be in Ulaanbataar, sweltering in the sun on the steppe. Helen, you’re the best.

The day before yesterday, we got out bikes boxed and ready to be put on the airplane. The sheer size of them demands they be in 3 over-sized boxes, which will set each of us back $325 in luggage fees. Extra costs aren’t nice, but the bikes are coming with us. Nathan Roberson, our official cycling consultant, was absolutely invaluable in this.

(Edit: the people at check in on Louisville only charged us 100$ total for having 1 extra box.) 

In other news! Last night we camped and used our stove:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
It’s a very nice stove.
And this morning we laid out all of our gear for you guys to see what we’re taking:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Two bikes, a whole bunch of essentials and a miniature guitar.
I feel like I should have hidden Waldo in there somewhere. Hmm…. 5 points to anyone who spots the knife I’m not going to use for evil. This is it guys. Everything we’ll have for the next 106 days. This is what will keep us alive and happy. Wish us luck.